Postcard History

Many cities have restaurants which are so iconic that any visit to them is redolent with memories of people and occasions. New York City’s Keen’s, once called a “Chop House” or “English Grille” but today more likely known as a “Steakhouse” has earned all the acclaim it deserves for its century and a half of devotion.

Known for the finest of prime meats, whiskies and tobacco, Keen’s has gone beyond being a masculine retreat devoted to the theatrical arts. It is proud to offer the best of class even for the discerning customer who prefers lobster or fish.

An interesting after-dinner habit showcased in the restaurant’s lobby is the collection of clay pipes belonging to notable diners who stored their “churchwarden” pipes here. Babe Ruth, “Buffalo Bill” Cody, John Barrymore, J.P. Morgan, General Douglas MacArthur all came to the Keen’s to eat, drink and smoke. The custom of storing clay pipes goes back to Shakespeare and friends at London’s Mermaid Restaurant.  The membership list of the Pipe Club contained the names of more than ninety-thousand eminent New Yorkers.

Keen’s’ whisky list is as impressive as its list of steaks. It’s hard not to get personal when discussing your own favorite Scotch malts. I have always been able to find my two favorites here or at least a reasonable alternative: Lagavulin 16-year Islay or The Macallan 18-year Sherry Oak. In fact, I was introduced to the Macallan line here, including their 30- and 35-year malts, by an old client whose trips to work with us in New York were usually punctuated with a visit to Keen’s so he could indulge his love of the magical elixir.

The core of Keen’s’ menu continues to be its prime beef steaks and its properly prepared mutton chops. According to the New York Times, their one millionth mutton chop was served in 1935 to insurance executive Warren T. Godfrey – which gives you an idea of the legacy associated with Keen’s’ signature dish. Each chop order consists of a whole saddle of mature mutton that includes the loin, the tenderloin and the belly, which cooking renders almost bacon-like.

Reportedly, the only recent shift at Keen’s which matters is its change of ownership, following its $30 million, 2024 acquisition by Tilman Fertitta, reputedly, the world’s richest restaurateur. Owner of numerous other signature properties in New York, Texas, and Nevada, Fertitta is determined to retain everything that is traditional and special about Keen’s. After being nominated by President Donald J. Trump in 2024, Fertitta serves as American Ambassador to Italy and San Marino.